Surfing is more than just a sport... it's a fever.   The surf fever is sweeping the country and teenagers everywhere are succumbing to the surfing way of life.   Surfing has become a state of mind... a wild, uninhibited existence that revolves around the sun, surf and the sand.

The first time you stand on a surfboard you'll know why surfing is here to stay... why it's a wild, popular activity that without question is the world's fastest growing sport.  They surf around the world -- Australia, France, Hawaii, New Zealand, Mexico, Peru, South Africa, on all coasts of the Uniteds States, and even on the Great Lakes where any place that borders a large body of water.

Why is surfing taking over and why has it captured the interest and enthusiasm of teenagers and adults everywhere?  With surfing comes an opportunity to challenge nature and the elements, and to conquer something that can only be conquered for a moment.   It's not only exciting and a challenge, it's fun.

Plummeting down a hill of moving green and blue water and being able to move your board right or left -- up or down -- is a feeling akin to flying, to skiing and to sailing.  The difference in surfing is that  not only are you moving, but the force you've harnessed is also moving.  that is, until you take a wipe-out.  A wipe-out is a spill -- a dump in the surf -- and no disgrace, as the unpredictable waves often heave forward spelling "end' to a surfer's ride.

The surfers have a language all of their own.  In describing a wave in surfers talk, it might go something like this:
"Look at that hot-dogger! He's hanging five in the curl."
"He'd better back-paddle before he pearls and takes a wipe-out"

To the non surfer this might as well be a foreign language.  To the surfer it's his talk -- he knows it and he lives it.   A hot-dogger is a red-hot surfer; one who performs, does a lot of turning, and gets the most out of the waves.   Hanging five is putting five toes over the nose  of your board -- a very difficult feat for any hot-dogger.   With your feet on the nose, the board moves faster -- the ride is more thrilling.   The curl refers to the breaking part of the wave.  The curl is the faster part of the wave, while the flat shoulder is extremely slow.   To back-peddle, a surfer steps back on his board away from the nose, to keep the nose from digging into the water and going for the bottom (pearling).   If he does pearl, he's sure to take gas, or take a wipe-out, followed by  swimming for his board.

The life of a surfer has a definite rhythm and beat to it... the beat of the surf and the beat of the wild, driving music he listens to.
The beat of the surf on the shore and the pounding of the wave while driving his surfboard through the curl or in a wipe-out is music to the surfer's ears.   The life of the beach, another "sound " to the surfer extends to many travels through many different lands.   The enthusiasm and excitement that accompanies a surfer when he travels is rare and unique to surfing.   The anticipation of the day's rides and the booming surf fills the surfer almost to the bursting point.. and then, When he comes over the last ridge or dune line.. he may see the surf.. hot, glassy, and roaring and beckoning  his desire to surf... And all the waiting, the driving, the patience to sit through bad days.. are all worth it!

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So you say its flat, both of your legs broken, or maybe its just too foggy to go out spotlighting tonight... Well kick back, open a tinny or pour a cup of java....and follow da path man.

Surf Photography at its Best    The world offers us fleeting glimpses of so many wondrous images...
                                                                wouldn't it be nice to keep and savor a few

Surf Great Lakes and Canada..no kiddin'

SUPER COOL Movie at CNN site of HUGE Moon Bay Swell

For a look at some pictures from the   Storm of Februrary 4th, CliCK HeRE